The 31 -year -old rising star, known for her sexy androgynous locker room, joined the brand created in 1987 on December 1 to give it new momentum. An unexpected wedding that stirs curiosity.
by maud gabrielson
Fashion always has more than one tour in its bag to surprise us. The Ann Demeulemeester brand has indeed announced the appointment of Ludovic de Saint Sernin to the post of artistic director, the 1 er December. A meeting between two universities to say the least. On the one hand, a historic label respected but a little sleeping. On the other, a cool creator of the Instagram generation who is not afraid to provoke, with sensual creations – his first emblematic piece was an leather jockstrap. A new direction therefore for the Belgian claw of Ann Demeulemeester, founded in 1987.
Graduated from the Royal Academy of Antwerp (Belgium), the latter is one of the “six of Antwerp” including Dries Van Notten, Walter Van Beirendonck or Marina Yee, these creators all from the same promotion and to The origin of a craze for fashion from Belgium in the 1980s.
His vision of a fashion with rock and romantic accents imposed a style combining male and feminine, always available in black and white. His gimmicks? Thick mesh pieces, long superimposed petticoats, twirling laces and escaping sides of fabric, jackets and biker boots or large hats stung with feathers. A poetic and melancholy look.
A first collection in March
Ann Demeulemeester left the artistic direction of his house in 2013, giving way to French Sébastien Meunier, who held the office until 2020. That same year, the label was bought by Italian Claudio Antonioli. “Claudio saved the brand. I will be grateful to her,” said the founder in January 2022 to “M Le Monde magazine”. Since then, she has devoted herself to the creation of design and furniture objects, but has remained artistic advisor to the house, the collections being since imagined by an internal team.
With the arrival of Saint Sernin, a new turn should begin. “Sensuality, fluidity and graphic aspect are the pillars of language that Ludovic de Saint Sernin is preparing to build by tracing the new course of Ann Demeulemeester”, announced the press release. The Frenchman, a graduate of the Duperré School, has been at the head of the label that bears his name for five years, temple of sexy androgynous and uninhibited pace – the skin reigns in majesty -, mixing male and feminine with many Fashion references of the 2000s. He won the Pierre Bergé de l’Andam Prize in 2018 and has been for a place in Paris Fashion Week with very followed parades, bringing together the mannequins of the moment such as Bella and Gigi Hadid.
The first Ann Demeulemeester collection signed by Ludovic de Saint Sernin will be presented in March 2023 during the Fall-Hiver 2023-2024 fashion week. Note that his own brand will also be on the calendar. A size challenge for the 31 -year -old creator.