Three recipes with citrus zest

oranges and lemons, but also kumquats, cedrats or pomelos, they are legion to be able to wake up the dishes and sharpen the taste buds, as demonstrated in a tasty work on citrus the Culinary Author Anne Etorre.

by Léo Pajon

“I have long been evolving in the world of gastronomy, but, before writing this book, I was convinced that there were only a dozen citrus when one can get one Ingraised quantity! “Creator of gourmet events (such as the Festival Voûs de Rennes) and Author Culinary, Anne Etorre signs with the Grand Book of Citrus (Flammarion, 384 pages, 35 euros), a work as sharp as playful.

Originally designed as an encyclopedia, he approaches his subject with great seriousness, partly thanks to the collaboration of Perrine and Etienne Schaller, owners of one of the largest citrus collections in the Pyrénées-Orientales , and the rereading of researchers from the National Research Institute for Agriculture, Food and the Environment (INRAE). Technical sheets, interviews with agrumiculturalists, reports (in vendors’ nurseries, for example): everything, everything, everything, you will know everything about the yuzu and its cousins.

But this big collection was not designed to use a university library. “I wanted to open the closed universe of citrus fruits, making it accessible also through the kitchen,” said Anne Etorre. We find, disseminated in the pages, the creations of multi -parlée masters: the roasted grapefruit of Pascal Barbot or the candied lemons of Mauro Colagreco. We are mainly seduced by the hundred recipes as affordable as they are sexy offered in a whole half of the work by the author. Here is a starter, a dish and a dessert to rediscover citrus fruits by the palate.

Duck gravlax to the kumquats

Claire Curt

for 4 people

Preparation: 15 minutes

Rest: 12 hours

Ingredients:

• A beautiful duck breast
• 70 grams of coarse salt
• 50 grams of fine sugar
• 10 Kumquats Round
• 1 teaspoon of Espelette pepper

Prepare the duck breast by removing the small nerves and removing the skin.

Cut the kumquats into small pieces taking care to remove the seeds and keeping the pulp and the juice.

Intimately mix salt, sugar, chili and kumquats. Place a third of this marinade in a hollow and oval dish, ideally the size of the duck breast. Place the duck breast on the mixture and cover it with the rest. Place a film in contact, ensuring that the whole is well airtight.

Fresh for twelve hours. At the end of these twelve hours, withdraw the duck from the film, rinse with clear water and dry. Cut into thin slices and serve as an aperitif or as a starter on toast.

Cucugnan shells in poutargue and Cedrat

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