The British brand announced this Wednesday, September 28, the appointment of the former designer of Bottega Veneta, 36 years old, passed by Celine, Maison Margiela and Balenciaga.
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A mobilized industry, international media on the lookout for the slightest news: fashion weeks are often the moments chosen by houses to make their important ads. It is therefore quite natural that Burberry decided to announce the appointment of English Daniel Lee to the post of artistic director on Wednesday, September 28, in the midst of Paris Fashion Week and only two days after the Spring-summer 2023 parade of the house , presented in London.
An appointment that marks the end of the collaboration between Riccardo Tisci and the English house. The rumors of an Italian departure, in style helm for almost five years, were going well in recent weeks. The American reference daily Women’s Wear Daily already published an article in this direction, August 30. Monday, September 26, in the hangar on the outskirts of London where the parade took place, nervousness was palpable within the teams. Smiling and playful, TISCI, 48, nevertheless declared to the press that this collection, inspired by the beaches of the British coast, was “its strongest” since its arrival.
With its aesthetics with Gothic contours and its thirteen years spent in the Givenchy house, Riccardo Tisci has breathed new breath from Burberry, modernizing the inexhaustible tartan and injecting a dose of streetwear into the British codes of the house, Created in 1856 and known worldwide for its conventional invoice trench coats. “Riccardo played a central role in the repositioning of Burberry. He improved our creative, modernized and raised language our product offer and attracted a new generation of luxury customers to our brand,” said Jonathan Akeroyd, CEO of the label, In a press release.
seduction and controversies
He will therefore be replaced on Monday October 3 by the designer Daniel Lee, who will supervise all the collections to come. “I am honored to join Burberry,” said the latter in a statement. With the team, we will write a new exciting chapter of this legendary house, relying on the heritage of Riccardo. I am delighted to return to London, A city that has always inspired me. “
Born in Bradford, England, Lee graduated from the prestigious Saint Martins central school in London. At 36, he went through the Celine houses, Maison Margiela and Balenciaga, before joining Bottega Veneta in 2018. It was within this Italian label that he really expressed his talent. It must be recognized by an undeniable propensity to seduce the young generations, through its strong and easily identifiable creations, and an excellent work on the bags, the nerve of the war for luxury houses. According to Kering’s 2019 annual report, published in February 2020, his Push was the most quickly sold bag in the history of Bottega Veneta.
His departure from the brand in November 2021 had taken the sector by surprise, despite some controversies. In January 2020, he made the decision to close the brand Instagram, Facebook and Twitter accounts. Then, in April 2021, in the middle of the pandemic context, the house had organized a party on the sidelines of a parade in a club in Berlin, where the curfew was then in force. Several videos had at the time leaked on social networks and launched a controversy.
After his precipitated departure from Bottega Veneta, persistent rumors suggested that Lee was particularly difficult with his collaborators. A reputation that does not seem to cool the Burberry house. The first collection signed Daniel Lee for the brand will be unveiled during London Fashion Week in February 2023.