Counts of concept restaurants that have been flourishing for years, starred chiefs are reappropriated the codes of classical cooking, theorized by Auguste Escoffier in the nineteenth century. QuENELLES NANTUA SAUCE AND DUBARRY SOUTHS ON THE MENU.
by
It is in a spatio-temporal flaw that the eaters each evening rushes on the moves of 19 hours. It gives live a gastronomic experience that less than 100 years old could not know. The trip in time starts at the door of Jean Imbert’s restaurant at Plaza Athenaea, within a few minutes of the Champs-Elysées. Installed since January at the head of the kitchens of the famous Parisian Palace – itself inaugurated in 1913, a little eternity – the leader made a bet born: that of reconstructing both the atmosphere and the flavor of large dinners glitzy from the beginning of the last century. From the scenography of the places to the revenues, through the staging of the room service, everything has been carefully studied to dive the guests in a cocoon where revive, the time of a meal, the dishes of yesteryear and the ghosts culinary from the past.
“I wanted by pushing the door of my restaurant we feel projected more than one hundred and fifty years back – as if we had just settled at the table of an Auguste Escoffier, of A vatel or a Lent Antonin and that we were suddenly wondering: what are they about to cook? “Explain Jean Imbert, who spent several months hushing the grimoires of these Great figures of classic French cuisine to carry out its project. See for yourself. In the interval of the columns in the Doric style which punctuate the restaurant, the walls were dressed with golden leaves. On the ceiling, a gigantic chandelier set with candles propagates a sifted light. In the center throne a long carmin red marble table on which are based on patinated aspect.
At the sound of a bell, the room director launches hostilities. An uninterrupted flood of impeccable black suit servers suddenly pops up kitchens from a backdoor. They have arms loaded with saucers, smoking plates and hammered copper pots. Here has just landed a Elegant lobster in Bellevue (from the name of this ancient technique, which consists of cutting the flesh of the crustacean into small medallions then delicately aligned on the back of the shell of the crustacea); there someone marvels on the arrival of his dubarry soup (a velvety cauliflower with the creamy texture whose original recipe dates back to the XVIII e century); Further a server applies to the cut of A blown turbot (a prowess that requires a sequence of mettements). The fish in the oval shape, with a very refined taste, has arrived still whole in a fishmonger – the special container in which it has cooked.
You have 61.51% of this article to read. The rest is reserved for subscribers.