Long put to the rebuilding, the imperfect pearls now assume their asymmetrical or approximate form
by
elongated, in relief, imperfect, oval or distorted, the pearls that do not marry the cannons of the round, smooth and without hitch, have long remained the forgotten of the jewelry collections. During the drastic sorters imposed after the harvests, even before they penetrate the workshops, their fate was sealed: scrapped. For the past five years, however, these atypical pearls, which the environment calls “baroques”, have been made a place, especially in the young guard.
“I have never seen so much,” says Stéphanie Roger. Among the neat selection that the founder of Parisian stores White Bird offers her customers coexist a yellow gold pendant from Cathy Waterman at the end of which hangs an oblong pearl (3,800 euros), a Charlotte Chesnais loop that puts an oval pearl and majesty unequal (790 euros), or another, signed Alice Waese, where an elongated pearl unfolds like an irregular cloud stung with tsavorites (1,395 euros).
“The criteria of beauty of the pearl are gradually questioned, underlines Stéphanie Roger. We live an era when everyone says it appreciates the organic, where everything that comes from nature is valued. Baroque pearls summon this impression of nature, while those which are impeccably round are almost suspected of being too perfect to be true. “
“The craze for baroques is real, supports the French designer installed in London Sarah Madeleine Bru. First challenged, customers quickly appreciate their singularity.” The fact that they are up to twice less expensive Is it also a plus? “Perhaps, but in truth the suppliers send me a stock that I sort myself to select those that I like, which does not come back to me less.”
a punk spirit
Adept of white and ovoid pearls, Sarah Madeleine Bru has recently drawn a ring with a pink Chinese pearl whose shape suggests a chewing gum in a hurry (630 euros)-Sign that the Baroque pearl S ‘Now assumes asymmetrical and approximate, far from the “pear size”, an elegant drop which was once the only sprain tolerated with a spherical shape, and whose wander, a legendary pearl discovered in the 16th century century and having belonged to Marie Tudor (1516-1558) as well as well as to Elizabeth Taylor (1932-2011), remains the most famous illustration.
“People understand today that spoiling pearls on the grounds that they are not perfect does not make sense, they want authentic”, notes Ayça Ozbank Taskan, from Mara Paris. After making himself known for her amazing jewelry inspired by famous buildings, the Turkish designer installed in the French capital began to introduce the pearl during confinement.
“I was looking for positive waves. The pearl, which has often been described as having supernatural powers or as a divine creation, brings a mystical, a lucky side, all the more when ‘It is baroque. And the fact that each has a different form offers a fun dimension. When you start to play with it, it is difficult to stop. “
Justine Clenquet uses her punk spirit: in her creations that have dogs and are sold at more accessible prices (from 30 to 150 euros on average) that competition, the Baroque pearl, pierced, is Mixed with silver and crystal chains. “The misshapen is interesting for its” unique piece “side, rents the designer established in Lille. After having worked for a long time with pearls from China, his last vintage, released in mid-April, uses a trompe-l’oeil. “I actually use false Swarovski crystal pearls, she reveals. They have no spots, are cheaper, have various diameters, from 5 to 16 millimeters, and imitate the imperfections of pearls very well Baroques. “An artifact invented to sing defects: what better proof that the defective has become cool?