Long considered to be made of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the third champagne grape variety takes its revenge. A return to grace pushed by the winemakers, which no longer hesitate to place it at the heart of their cuvées.
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The hanging, a little easy, is found in many articles dedicated to the renewal of this Champage Champage of Black Grape: “The awakening of the miller”, “Meunier does not sleep” … easy but false. Because the Pinot Meunier did not sleep. Ignored, even despised, the “small” of the three grape varieties that make up in an overwhelming majority champagne wines, with the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, did not deserve this fate. And it is today celebrated in many cuvées.
First because it is securely installed in the area. He was even the majority before the Second World War, then occupying some 60% of the vineyard, reminds Brigitte Batonnet, of the Interprofessional Committee of Champagne Wine. The rocker takes place in 1948, the year the vineyard is totally reorganized with a premium to the so-called “noble” grape varieties.
Today, the miller nevertheless occupies a nice place, with 31% of the some 37 200 hectares of the vineyard – 31% for Chardonnay and 38% for the Pinot Noir. These proportions have not really moved for twenty years, even if the trend is at the constant progression of Chardonnay at the expense of the miller: in 2000, this grape variety accounted for 34% of the vineyards, and Chardonnay 28%.
Bad reputation
Why, then, are we talking less about him than his two acolytes? Where does his bad reputation come from? Geography offers a beginning of response. Each grape variety occupies a distinct place. The Pinot Noir dominates in the mountain of Reims and in dawn, the Chardonnay in what was called the “white coast”, which has become the white coast, the two grape varieties incorporating many great raw villages and first raw. And the Pinot Meunier is at home in the Marne Valley. This valley does not have the soils put forward by the most famous champagne brands, which sell their cuven around the world by often forwarding Chardonnay and its golden color.
You have to be wary of reputations and display, respond to the winemakers of the Marne Valley that we encountered. All clame high and strong their attachment to the miller, offering cuvées from this grape variety alone, or which are mostly composed. They all want to twist the neck to the bad reputation as this black-skinned grape and dark juice has long dragged. “The real lovers have understood that there were no two major grape varieties and another minor,” confirms the Cavist Pierre-Yves Cainjo, who offers an incredible range of champagnes, including unknown winemakers, in his shop. Epernay, which bears the name of 520. And to remember that there was a time when some large houses, fearing to tarnish their image, preferred to put a “S” to Pinot, on their labels, rather than mention the presence of Pinot Meunier in their assembly.
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